From: Harold Jenkinson, Apollo 357
Category: Maintenance
Date: 10 May 2000
Time: 14:03:52
Remote Name: 152.163.204.21
My experience with bailers is that if they are more than a few years old, they nearly always leak. When small bailer leaks become large ones, usually the gasket needs to be replaced. Layline sells replacement gaskets on page 55 of their current catalog. You can obtain a catalog from their website >www.layline.com<. Cost of a gasket is $13 plus shipping. Much less than a new bailer at 83 bucks!
Gasket replacement is not easy but can be done with some muscle power. First, remove the bailer from the hull. Then separate the "wire" piece from the assembly by spreading it. Separate the remaining parts and remove the old gasket. Be sure to note exactly how the parts go together. Here's the secret: lubricate the new gasket liberally with liquid soap and reassemble the parts. It takes a bit of force. Reinstall the bailer in the hull using a good sealer like 3M 5200.
From:
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 03 Jun 2001
Time: 02:04:55
Remote Name: 24.4.252.54
As far as the Elvstrom bailers are concerned, I actually found some actual replacements from a place in Annapolis -- they're just 5 mm neoprene with some kind of two sided tape on one side. This tape is suspect -- I think I would have been better off using neoprene glue (like for wet suits) or a silicone sealant. I've just put the boat in the water for the first time; there's a little water leaking into the cockpit from somewhere, but I'm not sure if it's from the bailers or not. Tried opening one, but water came in. It would seem that you have to be going at quite a good clip for them to work? I'm intending to leave my boat on a mooring; do they all leak? Thanks again, L. Lee
From: Bob West
Category: Problems/Solutions
Date: 10 Sep 2000
Time: 18:43:04
Remote Name: bmw.res.wpi.net
Getting an aftermarket drum ande furler from Harken or schaeffear should run you about 100.00 bucks
From: Dave Paule
Category: Problems/Solutions
Date: 01 Dec 2000
Time: 03:40:38
Remote Name: dynamic-dsl126.dynamic-dsl.frii.net
I don't know of any source for ready-made parts for our out-of-production boat, but West Marine, BoatUS and Defender all custom-make rigging parts. Since the Apollo's headstay has a hook at the foot for a bungee, its length isn't too critical. Good luck!
From: L. Lee #171
Category: Maintenance
Date: 24 Jun 2001
Time: 02:45:15
Remote Name: 24.4.252.46
There have been questions on parts -- had to relate what happened to me today. Sailing in fairly stiff, gusty air, the traveller line slipped and the traveller car hit the port stop so hard that it fractured the stop and spewed its 4 wheel races and all 24 ball bearings into the lake. Well, it turns out that Rig-rite, in Warwick RI, is one of the largest dealers in Kenyon spars/fittings in the world. Though they were closed, the owner (?) was in the shop and answered the phone, looked up the parts, pulled them from stock, and said that if I could get right in, he'd open up and sell them to me! Great source for these parts. Check out their web page at rigrite.com. How have people been reefing their mains? I put the cunningham through the reef tack cringle, and put a shackle on the outhaul so that I can move it up to the reef clew then just use bungies through the reef cringle and under the boom. Anyone know how the AMF jiffy reef option worked? Anyone have an easier way? Boat's still pretty tender, even reefed. Thanks, and glad to see the activity on the web site! Larry Lee
From: Tim Long #712
Category: Maintenance
Date: 30 Dec 2001
Time: 12:43:42
Remote Name: 63.214.114.22
I am having a very difficult time finding 2" Ash stock to remake a tiller and wood blocks for the rudder head. Has anyone tried other woods, such as mahogany? Also, mine came withou a tiller extension, and I am not sure what length to buy.
From: Scott Grenlund (hull # unknown yet)
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 16 Jan 2002
Time: 17:15:03
Remote Name: 64.91.64.132
I have had good luck buying replacement parts for the rig from the internet at www.rigrite.com. They have a link to Kenyon Spars which was the original manufacturer of the spars on my hull.
From: Tim Long #712
Category: Maintenance
Date: 10 Feb 2002
Time: 06:31:43
Remote Name: 205.188.198.163
Try this link http://hometown.aol.com/amfboats/Force5.html Howies boat parts may be able to steer you in the right direction.Also your hull number is part of your serial number stamped on the transom-see the section of this web site on how to read it. My rudder was badly waterlogged when I got it, so ihad to remake the wooden parts inside the rudder head, and patch and refinish the blade. I can tell you that my blade measures 27" from the pivot point to the bottom, and is approx. 8-9" wide.
From: Tim Long #712
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 06 Mar 2002
Time: 14:37:45
Remote Name: 205.188.197.176
I noticed that rudder heads, pintles, etc. were available from RWO and Yahchtspeed through the Annapolis Performance Sailing catalog, www.apsltd.com. The problem, I guess,is finding a similar blade. I could take photos of mine and email them to you if that would help.
From:
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 03 Apr 2002
Time: 17:46:32
Remote Name: 152.163.207.82
Try www.apsltd.com, Annapolis Performance Sailing has been a great souce of parts for me. Ask for a catalog. They sell hiking straps and centerboard gaskets by the foot. The manual recommends connecting the straps to the front and back of the cockpit, and to your twart board in the center of the strap. If you don't have a copy of the manual, download the PDF file on this website for more info.
From: Dave Paule
Category: Problems/Solutions
Date: 01 Dec 2000
Time: 03:40:38
Remote Name: dynamic-dsl126.dynamic-dsl.frii.net
I don't know of any source for ready-made parts for our out-of-production boat, but West Marine, BoatUS and Defender all custom-make rigging parts. Since the Apollo's headstay has a hook at the foot for a bungee, its length isn't too critical. Good luck!
From: Ivan Andrade
Category: Problems/Solutions
Date: 19 Jun 2001
Time: 18:44:57
Remote Name: 152.163.207.48
Check out a Laser II, FJ, International 14, Jet 14, 470, 505, Thistle or Buccaneer for rigging ideas. Chute size: nothing bigger than 135 s.f. unless you want to install a trapeze system as well. How fast you want to be going when you wipe out? Pole length is dependent on J length of chute, about 8" to 13" longer than the distance from the base of the mast to the roller furling drum for the jib. Check pages 101 & 113 of The Handbook of Sailing by Bob Bond. Its of a 470 but EVERYTHING shown is needed and available at West Marine and other suppliers. As you've probably guessed by now, I've got my Apollo, Bittersweet, hull #897, set up and refuse to go out without it. Great training for the bigger boats I crew on. Instant feedback!!! Helm gets squirrelly on down wind plane, boat rolls abeam quite a bit, keep weight way aft so you don't stuff the bow. I prefer sailing a shallow broad reach, using the reaching clips to twing down the pole end to flatten out the leach and sort of control the broaching. Kicking the centerboard up about 2/3 of the way helps to quiet things down. Good luck and Godspeed.
From: Ivan Andrade, #897
Category: Problems/Solutions
Date: 23 Jun 2001
Time: 12:42:03
Remote Name: 152.163.207.182
Measurements of spinnaker I'm using are as follows:
Luff, 13.8'
Foot, 8.8'
Max. girth on horizontal axis, 11'
Max. girth on vertical axis, 16.2'
Approx. 130' s.f.
From: Tim Long #712
Category: Problems/Solutions
Date: 03 Jan 2002
Time: 18:47:57
Remote Name: 205.188.198.57
My Apollo came with 2 different rudders. One is much longer than the other, but the shorter one looks it it was used alot more. What is the better rudder?
From: Scott - Nostromo#379
Category: Maintenance
Date: 17 Jan 2002
Time: 16:10:32
Remote Name: 64.91.64.132
My 1979 generation boat has a problem with the centerboard rubbing on the lower edges of the trunk. I initially thought it was the stiff centerboard gasket making it difficult to get the board all the way down. So I cut the gasket off, which did not fix the problem. I don't think the board is swollen since I have been able to drop the board in vertically like a daggerboard, which has kept me sailing. I was wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem? I am considering shaving the board thinner and recoating, but would rather not if there is another fix.
From: Tim Long #712
Category: Problems/Solutions
Date: 17 Jan 2002
Time: 17:11:37
Remote Name: 205.188.193.152
I would consider removing the centerboard and sanding the trunk interior walls first. Another factor might be that the centerboard is probably hollow, and may have filled with water.My rudder was filled with water (I held it and tilted it back and forth and could hear the water moving)so I drilled a hole to let it out, then patched the hole.
From: Ed Ramsey hull #316
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 05 Feb 2002
Time: 20:11:49
Remote Name: 128.146.213.78
I currently use a paddle, but I am experimenting with a curve-shaft ECHO weed trimmer to make an ultra lightweight gasoline outboard motor. I took an echo gt-2400 trimmer and cut about 1 foot off of the shaft (closest to the engine) and I am machining the spool hub to fit a propeller from an electric trolling motor. I haven't finished it yet, but I plan to this summer.
From: Tim Long #712
Category: Modifications
Date: 10 Feb 2002
Time: 06:17:25
Remote Name: 205.188.198.163
I have just finished replacing the three mahogany peices with new ones. I bought 12' of 1x8 philopine mahogany. I measured and cut the thwart board and rear trunk cover, I traced the front trunk cover that is "U"shaped, and made most of the cuts with a table saw. I finished the U-cut with a hand jig saw.Sanded with 80 then 220. I then clamped the old board on top of the new one, and drilled the screw holes though the old and into the new. When 2 holes where drilled, i put in temp wood screws and removed the clamps. This made drilling the remaining holes easier on the drill press. Then I removed the old board, and put in a countersink bit, and countersunk the drill holes in the new boards (except where hardware was to be mounted-leave them flush).When I stack the old and new boards and hold up to light-I can verify that all drill holes are lined up and that the new board will fit properly. I then applied 6 coats of good varnish, sanding with 335 between coats.
From: Scott Grenlund, Nostromo #379
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 13 Feb 2002
Time: 12:57:08
Remote Name: 64.91.64.132
My Apollo already had small oarlock holes and collars drilled through the outboard edge of the rail, about halfway between the chainplates and the transom. I use a long pair of oars that work really well, even singlehanded. I can sit on the thwart, and row with the tiller extension under one leg. I stow the oars along the centerboard trunk at the deck, with bungee cords to hold them togather. It's a pretty
From: #897 Bittesweet
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 16 Feb 2002
Time: 17:24:19
Remote Name: 152.163.197.214
Tim, I would stay with the ash. It's long-grained, light wieght, good screw holding, doesn't warp. Try a fine wood supplier, cabinet shop, furniture maker, trim carpenter.
From: #897 Bittersweet
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 16 Feb 2002
Time: 17:26:07
Remote Name: 152.163.197.214
Tim, The shorter rudder is probably just a worn down long rudder. Use the longer one.
From: #897 Bittersweet
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 16 Feb 2002
Time: 17:50:41
Remote Name: 152.163.197.214
Scott, DON'T SHAVE THE RUDDER,whatever you do. it's a foil section with lift/drag calculated pretty carefully. The centerboard will be difficult to raise/lower with any lateral pressure. Are you trying to move it while sailing upwind or on a reach? Your centerboard could be warped or swollen but you have to find a good one for comparison. Is there wear on one side more than the other? Your centerboard trunk could be swollen. Boat builders often times have a hard time controlling centerboard trunks during the layup process. I have seen brand new boats with bad centerboard trunks. How is it rigged for raising/lowering? Are the control lines binding up or jamming? Maybe get the boat off the trailer and tip it on its side and watch what happens when the centerboard is raised/lowered.
From: Magic Bus #659
Category: Other
Date: 01 Mar 2002
Time: 09:27:15
Remote Name: 205.245.2.135
I have not yet cut the mast. I have completed the first part of the patch on the hull, (it floats) I intend to build a mast step into the hull as the foremast will set on the patch. The mast is complete with the exit blocks and such. Are you interested in it? Do you have a section of mast 14' long? I'm located in Fort Myers FL. Where are you?
From: Tim Long #712
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 03 Mar 2002
Time: 06:57:53
Remote Name: 64.12.103.46
My Apollo came without a tiller extension. I was about to buy a 30" when I read that the laser, a smaller boat, uses a 48" extension. This seems too long and I am trying to economize here, otherwise I would get the adjustable. What length came with the boat or is most commonly used?
From: Ivan, #897 Bittersweet
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 04 Mar 2002
Time: 09:16:42
Remote Name: 152.163.197.67
I installed a telescoping tiller extension with 30" full extension. It works good with two people but is too short by 12" for single-handed. When I sail alone, I have found the boat points best if I position my weight at the thwart where the jib sheet cleats are mounted. A 30" tiller extension doesn't allow full hike in this position.
From: Ed Ramsey, hull#316
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 05 Mar 2002
Time: 16:34:50
Remote Name: 128.146.213.54
what color is your mast, and do you have the original headstay with the bungee cord? my mast is orange, but i don't like the color. I would also need the boom if you are interested in trading. I am not sure how to ship something with the kind of length the mast has. Maybe i should just paint mine. I would like to know how the headstay operated, mine has been replaced with galvanized cable by a previous owner. I rigged up a turnbuckle to it, which works OK, but I think maybe the original design would be better. The boat in the 'scoot' pictures is a sea devil. The centerboard on the sea devil snapped off and the mainsail ripped in Camden harbor in Maine last July. I guess that's what happens when you try to sail something like that in 25-30 knot breezes. I would like to be able to identify the boat in the pictures 'me01', 'me02', 'bow', and 'stern'. it can also be seen in the farm pictures 1 folder as 'myboat1'. It is about 11'6" in length, 5' wide, and has a "M" inside a circle on the sail. It is not a moth. I was told that it may have been home built.
From: Tim Long #712
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 06 Mar 2002
Time: 14:25:39
Remote Name: 205.188.197.176
Thanks for your reply. I just sat at the thwart board and measured, and you are right. I looks like a 36"-42" extension would be required for single handed sailing from a hiking postion, and 30" would be comfortable from the helm postion when sailing double handed.
From: Michael Scoggins #402
Category: Other
Date: 01 Jun 2001
Time: 01:40:16
Remote Name: 216.54.139.231
A regatta for Apollos is being planned for 2002. A site will be chosen that is centrally located for interested parties. Chime in if interested!
From: Ivan Andrade, Hull #897
Category: Other
Date: 07 Jun 2001
Time: 06:42:47
Remote Name: 152.163.195.184
Okay, you guys finally got my attention. A regatta sounds great but who is administering Apollo Sailing Class Association by-laws and racing rules in regards to acceptable standing & running rigging. There is no mention A.S.C.A. by-laws of a spinnaker(max. size?) along with needed rigging even though such equipment is listed as an option(?) in A Field Guide To Sailboats 2nd edition by R.M. Sherwood. Because of my racing interests not having a spinnaker is not an option. I have added said spinnaker of approx. 130 s.f along with all the other needed goodies to my Apollo for fun and training. Regardless of the sorting out process for rules and regs, I would be most interested in attending an Apollo regatta.
From: Michael Scoggins #402
Category: Other
Date: 08 Jun 2001
Time: 22:40:14
Remote Name: 216.54.139.220
Since the apollo class is defunct, I'm sure we could come to an agreement as to what was fair. Maybe different events for different enthusiest levels?
BTW: Whats the date you Apollo was made?
From: Ivan Andrade, Bittersweet #897
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 20 Jun 2001
Time: 00:12:55
Remote Name: 64.12.102.184
B.T.W. According to the imprint on the stern of #897, it was born in Sept. of '83. In regards to different levels in the regatta, it may be best to make it real simple. For example, All classes must maintain original hull, centerboard, rudder shape. Main must be of original material & method.No fully battened mains or mains with an increase in roach. Sails may be bolt roped, loose footed or bulleted. Hull # must be on main sail as Sailing Federation guidelines. Jib must be of original size, material and roller furling. Mast material, placement, size must be of original design. Shrouds, spreaders, shackles, forestay may be of any length and any material but placement of chainplates is to remain original. No additional stays or shrouds are to be installed.
strictly stock: original placement of all cleats, lines, sheeting blocks, vang purchase, mainsheet purchase,travelers, hiking straps, centerboard pivot, etc.
Modified: Rerouting and repositioning and addition of any line, cleat fairlead, car, associated with the running rigging. Alteration of hiking strap is allowed. Alteration to tiller extension is allowed but not dual. Wisker pole allowed. Windward sheeting car and traveler not allowed.
Godspeed class: Everything in modified plus; Dual tiller extensions allowed. Trapeze allowed. Spinnaker up to 150 sq.ft. allowed. Windward sheeting car/traveler allowed. Knee & elbow pads along with a large bottle of Ibuprofen not required but strongly recommended.
Thats off the top of my head and probably needs input and refinement from others but I hope it keeps the discussion going.
As far as location; find some warm, wakeless inland body of water with good camping, near a marine supply store, close to cheap food, no huge bug problem, centrally located or at least some place everyone just needs an excuse to go visit.
From: Philipp Steger
Category: Other
Date: 13 Jul 2001
Time: 01:55:58
Remote Name: 216.181.215.120
I would like to meet with someone who is sailing an Apollo in the DC Area. I myself live in the District and have the Apollo at the Washington Sailing Marina. Philipp
From: Philipp Steger
Category: For Sale
Date: 23 Jul 2001
Time: 01:52:22
Remote Name: 216.181.215.120
I am selling my apollo 1980. The boat is in good overall condition. Anyone interested can email me at steger@us.net
From: Tim Long #712
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 30 Dec 2001
Time: 07:08:34
Remote Name: 205.188.197.171
I am restoring my newly aquired 1980 Apollo,including making new woodwork in my shop.I am interested in attending the regatta if you have one in New England. I live in the suburban Boston area, so Cape Cod or Newport would be great.
From: Tim Long #712
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 30 Dec 2001
Time: 08:00:33
Remote Name: 205.188.197.171
I had replied once but didn't see it posted so I will try again. I would be interested in the regatta and live in the suburban Boston area, so Cape Cod or Newport R.I. would be pretty convenient. There are no good lakes that I know of around here, but I prefer the steady ocean breeze over swirling and unpredictable lake winds anyway.
From: Scott Grenlund, Nostromo#379
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 16 Jan 2002
Time: 20:11:28
Remote Name: 63.175.221.131
I would also be interested in sailing and talking with other owners. Some site near the midwest would be best for me.
From: Ivan Andrade #897 Bittersweet
Category: Other
Date: 15 Feb 2002
Time: 08:41:42
Remote Name: 205.188.197.172
This is one of the more entertaining discussion groups I follow due to the willingness of many owners to modify/improve(?)the handling/safety/performance. I sincerely hope the regatta/RALLY gets off the ground so I can see as many variations on the Apollo theme in one place. And thats why I call it a 'RALLY'. Modifications in rigging/foils/weight in a small craft such as the Apollo can have dramatic effects in performance. The main idea of a regatta is to test sailing skills. Granted part of sailing skills is preping the boat but this is within accepted guidelines and specifications. For example: Instead of making #897 more stable & forgiving by detuning I embrace the very aspects many owners of the Apollo dislike; tippiness.I deck over the cockpit at seat height, seal it, glass over the autobailer cutouts, open the transom above the new deck to make a true self bailing boat. Not having to move around the centerboard trunk makes weight transfer much easier/ smoother/ safer and the boat is faster. I am confident this modification would make the crew and boat faster and safer when matched against a stock Apollo. I haven't altered sail area or decreased weight or added a trapeze or changed placement of standing/running rigging or changed foil sections or changed the shape of the hull which are the real critical factors for determining potential speed of a boat. The potential of the boat is only realized when the ergonomics allow the crew to move efficiently. Nevertheless, Let me put my vote in for for the regatta to be some place East of the Mississippi. I live in Colorado but I love to travel for races. Part of the joy of small boat sailing for me is going to new places, making friends, really experiencing the diversity of this country. I think the first regatta should be located where the greatest number of boats are located which seems to be East. Those interested in attending said regatta/rally should start posting what region they are from to get a better idea. Lets get on this, the sailing season is upon us. Most clubs and organizations have already made there plans for the season
From: Scott Grenlund, Nostromo #379
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 15 Feb 2002
Time: 16:28:32
Remote Name: 64.91.64.132
I agree, this would be a great thing for such a diverse fleet. I live in northern Wisconsin
From: Tim Long #712
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 16 Feb 2002
Time: 06:07:47
Remote Name: 205.188.192.21
It seems like many are in the mid west, so how about either lake ontario (maybe off Rochester NY) or Annapolis MD?
From: I. Andrade, #897 Bittersweet
Category: Other
Date: 29 Mar 2002
Time: 16:36:13
Remote Name: 152.163.206.197
HAVE WE ALL GIVEN UP ON THE REGATTA IDEA??
From:
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 03 Apr 2002
Time: 17:41:50
Remote Name: 152.163.207.82
If everyone still wants to do this, then we need to determine a place. I'm in the Boston area, but I may be able to make a day trip for a regatta.
From: Tim Long #712
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 09 Apr 2002
Time: 23:49:27
Remote Name: 205.188.197.188
OK, I'll make a suggestion. How about we find a launch ramp near Rochester NY on the lake. We could hold the Regatta on labor day weekend, or the weekend after. I have to drive from Boston, and it's not too far from the midwest.
From: Ivan, #897
Category: Problems/Solutions
Date: 24 Jun 2001
Time: 14:17:10
Remote Name: 152.163.207.189
Reefing: set up jiffy reefing by installing two cheek blocks on boom, one below reef point clew cringle & one below tack. Tie reef line at outboard end of boom, run through reefing clew cringle, down to cheek block, then along boom through tack end cheek block, up to tack reef cringle, then down to cleat of choice on base of mast. Mark main halyard in a bold, obvious way to indicate how far to let down for reef.
Slipping traveler cleat: I replaced those offending clam cleats with cam cleats. It took a bit of doing to reinforce the cockpit combing(epoxy, threaded stainless inserts, pondering time) without chopping big holes for access. I installed traveler line as one piece, traversing the cockpit. If its blowing that hard to slam the traveler car out through the stop, keep traveler centered and cleated, keep the boom vanged hard, use mainsheet for sheeting.
Yeah, shes tender but that what makes it fun. My wife & I enjoy the challenge of keeping her on her feet. Quiet, fluid and timely coordination of crew movements required by this boat has improved our boat handling skills.
From: Ivan, #897, Bittersweet
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 10 Jul 2001
Time: 12:22:08
Remote Name: 205.188.198.169
Philipp, Crewing the Apollo is an active event on gusty days. Lots of weight transfer to weather side and serious hiking of crew and helmsman to keep it upright. I do not consider the Apollo a beginner boat based on its hull shape, (very fine entry, canoe body, very rounded chine) coupled with a generous sail area particularly the mainsail. With knowledge of the performance nature the goal is to detune the boat and make it more user friendly.
MAINSAIL Set the mainsail up with reefing lines to reduce the sail area. Make sure the outhaul, boomvang, and cunningham are having the desired shape changes on the mainsail, making it flat and moving the draft aft to depower.
JIB Extend the furling line aft with some sort of cam cleat not a clam cleat. When jib is furled tight, there should be at least two wraps of jib sheet around furled sail. The jib cars should be foreward with more wind to open upper leach and depower jib.
GENERAL If you have fixed jib cam cleats change them to a swiveling style that is canted up. Change traveler clam cleats to cam cleats. Increase boomvang ratio by adding another block. Change stock fiddle block to one with cam cleat($$) Make sure lines are different colors even if they're are different sizes. Change tiller extender to style that telescopes. When windy try sailing with centerboard 2/3 up. Allows the boat to slip sideways a bit when you get hammered by gust. Turtling a dinghy boat is not always fun, consider installing a mast head float made by Hobie. Mast should have about 3 to 5 degrees of rake with 1" of prebend. This is accomplished by changing spreader lengths, shroud lengths and forestay length & tension. A lot of trial & error but worth the effort to getting a balanced boat.
WITH TWO PERSON CREW Larger crew member, regardless of experience on helm, should be foreward of thwart at maximum beam. If more experienced is foreward then they should run mainsail and its adjusters, (vang, cunningham, outhaul, leachline) and the jib and its adjusters. Foreward crew must be able to move quickly but not abruptly to counter forces AND HIKE WAAAAY OUT sometimes.
SINGLED HANDED Pratice reefing main. If unsure of offshore conditions put reef in before setting out. Practice furling and unfurling jib. Be prepared to sail jib only if the wind really picks up. Sit at the thwart and no further back. This keeps the bow down and pointing and puts crew weight at the beam of the boat.
Good luck
Ivan
From: Ed Ramsey hull#316
Category: Problems/Solutions
Date: 05 Feb 2002
Time: 20:46:14
Remote Name: 128.146.213.78
I heard of an easier way to right a turtled boat. Before setting up your boat, tie one end of a rope to the top of the mast, and run the other end through a piece of styrofoam or a boat fender, with a knot. When the boat turtles, you take the bouyant object away from the hull of the boat and pull the knotted end of the rope up through the piece of foam or fender, until the top of the mast reaches the foam. Then, tie a slipknot in the rope to hold the top of the mast at the water's surface until you are able to swim over to the centerboard and right the boat. Once it is up, you pull on the rope, untying the slipknot, and your foam or fender falls back to you.
From: Philipp Steger
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 08 Jul 2001
Time: 21:09:33
Remote Name: 216.181.215.120
07/08/01
I went out sailing yesterday with the Apollo. It was an extremely windy afternoon and we capsized in the middle of the Potomac with lots of onlookers (commercial motorboats with tourists on them and many, many private motorboats). I got the boat up, before it turtled, but before I could get onboard to untie the mainsheet that had got caught, the boat capsized again and this time it turtled completely. It was a pretty stressful incident, also because at that point the metropolitan police had pulled up, had taken my wife onboard and watched me get the boat on its correct side again. After many failed attempts and an equal amount of bruises I finally got the boat up again. All in all the experience did not go over too well with my wife, so that she is now very reluctant to go out when it is windy, so I was wondering if any of you has experience with sailing the boat single handedly and has any advice regarding that.
From: Philipp Steger
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 08 Jul 2001
Time: 21:12:45
Remote Name: 216.181.215.120
Yes, I put her in the water. The results so far: capsized and turtled her; boat leaks through both bailers, so badly that I think I will have to replace both; I find the boat extremely difficult to sail, especially since so far I have been going out with my wife who puts on hardly anymore than 100 pounds, so the boat heels very strongly as soon as the wind gets stronger. Now, I am actually looking to find someone who sails an Appolo in the vicinity of Washington to maybe have that someone show me a few tricks.
From:
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 25 Jul 2001
Time: 02:42:49
Remote Name: 24.4.252.54
Philipp, I'm really sorry to hear that you've decided to sell your Apollo. I've been trying to learn to sail mine with my 11 and 12 year old boys, and it has been a bit of a handfull. We've capsized it a few times and turtled it twice. I've even (this is difficult to admit) capsized it while tied up to a mooring! On the other hand, Ivan's suggestion to let the less experienced hands steer while I handle the main and can sit in a maximally advantageous position for hiking has made a world of difference. Furthermore, I've found a quick and easy way to reef the main is to use the cunningham in the tack reefing cringle, use a long enough outhaul to reach the clew reefing cringle, and throw some bungy cords into the rest. Put some slip knots into the traveller lines to let it move freely to leeward but not forcing total dependence on those clam cleats or the traveller stops (had one break scattering all the races and ball bearings into the lake). I think that moving your jib sheet cleats aft will open up the leech more to allow more wind to spill from the jib (a larger proportion of the tension is being directed aft as opposed to down). All this is not to say that we won't be crashing any more, and this may not be enough for your wife (mine remains quite skeptical). But consider hanging in there with this boat! Good luck either way, L. Lee #171
From: Tim Long #712
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 30 Dec 2001
Time: 07:38:35
Remote Name: 205.188.197.171
I should say "somewhat nervous" new owner! As I am reading the posts I see that this boat is a handfull to keep on her feet. Is this true even in winds of 10-12 knots? This is where my sunfish is at it's best. I bought the Apollo to be able to take out more passengers, but I afraid I will soak them!
From: Scott - Nostromo#379
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 16 Jan 2002
Time: 20:33:39
Remote Name: 63.175.221.131
You may not have to worry as much as some of these posting lead on. My Apollo (#379) is only my 2nd boat, having graduated from a Sunfish as well. I have had no troubles with getting wet other than the cockpit bailers, which I promptly sealed shut. This includes sailing on a 16 sq mi inland lake in lower michigan and on the open waters of Green Bay. She can be a handful single handed, but you just have to pick the right day and get comfortable.
From: mike moore hull# unknown
Category: Other
Date: 16 Feb 2002
Time: 21:31:51
Remote Name: 205.188.195.165
tim long - thanks for the info about rdder/tiller parts. have been sailing this boat for 2 years with a homemade rudder and tiller of dubious design. in fact, i teach a sailing class to 8-12 year olds at a private school using the apollo. have been reading with great interest the war stories of the tenderness of the apollo. i've told many parents that this is not a beginner boat and their sons/daughters may not sail by themselves. oh well, the kids learn respect for the water when they see their instructor is scared silly. i have been hoping to tame the boat somewhat with the proper steering mechanism. i have owned a number of hobie 16's and 18's and single handed all of them at some time so i think that experience helps with the apollo. i'll let you know if i find a rudder, but in the meantime let me know of any other ideas you may have.
From: Ivan Andrade, #897 Bittersweet
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 20 Feb 2002
Time: 07:36:00
Remote Name: 152.163.197.48
Mike, Its great to hear you're teaching youth to sail on the Apollo!! Paraphrasing from an editorial in SAILING mag; "...small boats that TIP help to create great sailors. If you install a permanent masthead float (made by Hobie) light weight sailors won't have to right the boat from full turtle.
From: Magic Bus
Category: Sailing Tales
Date: 26 Oct 2001
Time: 07:48:23
Remote Name: 205.245.2.135
Hello to all, I have recently acquired an Apollo. It was by the side of the road with a sign that read "FREE BOAT" a brief inspection revealed a 12" wide hole in the bow and a incomplete set of rigging. It had the center board, mast, boom, misc. hardware, no rudder, no sails and no information about the boat itself. I have been messing about in small sail boats since 1970 and small boats in general all my life. I currently own a O'Day Widgeon which has seen several overnight sail/camping trips during the last four years. A small group of friends who also own sailing dinghy's generally are involved in the planning and execution of the trips. Most of us also actively race on a varity of bigger boats, most of my time has been spent on a 35' NightWind (Bruce Kirby design). To further the camping sailing I had been looking for a boat to rig with as simple a rig as possible to facilitate esy up and down of the sail & masts. When I saw the Apollo it looked like a good candidate for conversion to a schooner. At this point some may ask why I'm posting on a site where much discussion has been given to class organization. First because regardless of the rig on top the hull is the same. (I find the posts about capsizing and turtling to be informative) I would also like to help out anyone I can. Many of the parts and pieces that were with the boat when picked up will not be needed by me. I would be happy to pass along the hardware that is needed by other Apollo sailors. I will be putting together a list of parts I have but do not need. I have not yet cut the mast but intend to. If some one needs a mast & boom I would be agreeable trading the one meant for the Apollo for a suitable replacement. I need a mast only 14' tall for the proposed sail plan on the Magic Bus. I will be cutting the mast in the next month or so unless other interests intervene. If anyone is interested let me know. Respectfully Chester
From: Ed Ramsey, hull#316
Category: Modifications
Date: 05 Feb 2002
Time: 20:43:05
Remote Name: 128.146.213.78
I bought a '79 apollo this past summer and sailed it several times at a local reservoir, Clearfork Res. in Mansfield, Ohio. I also sailed it at Lake Erie once. When I got it, the centerboard was split down the middle along the seam, and the "inner hull" was separating from the "outer hull". I epoxied the hull seam back together and began sailing. After a few trips, the centerboard had separated so badly that I was unable to sail the boat. So I located a new board on Howie's parts page and installed it. The more I sailed the boat, the more I realized that it was fairly unstable. So I am currently in the process of re-rigging the boat to better suit me. I have the boat stripped of all hardware and I am replacing the mahogany panels in the cockpit, etc. I want to be able to easily sail the boat singlehandedly without compromising speed. So I plan to install blocks on the jib tracks, and relocate the fairlead/camcleats aft so I can control the jib from the rear of the boat. I am also going to extend the furling line into the cockpit with a camcleat, and I may move the main traveller track to sit on top of the thwart seat, and install a piece of mahogany trim atop the transom to assure that the rudder can't escape if it does turtle. I also plan to take the old centerboard and remove all glue and wood from it and fill the lower part of it with lead shot, covered with epoxy, and reinforce it with steel rod. This will help the ballast situation. I will keep the new centerboard in its original state. On my boat, the wood reinforcement at the front of the centerboard well (originally coated with fiberglass) has rotted out. I plan to replace it with either fiberglass or aluminum. My rudder blade has a leak and keeps filling with water, so I might fill it with epoxy or make a new one from mahogany or another type of wood. I would just fix the leak, but I really don't like the way the seam tends to split. have fun all!
From: Ed Ramsey #316
Category: Other
Date: 05 Feb 2002
Time: 21:05:20
Remote Name: 128.146.213.78
you can see my sailing pictures at http://photos.yahoo.com/edr_bug and click on the apollo folder.
From: hull # unknown
Category: Problems/Solutions
Date: 05 Feb 2002
Time: 23:41:22
Remote Name: 64.12.105.166
i have an apollo and teach a sailing class with it at a small private school here in tampa. when i found the boat, it was complete except for rudder, tiller and sails. i found some unused fogh sails but have been making do with a homemade rudder/tiller. anybody help? also, where is the hull#
From: Jim geshay
Category: Other
Date: 28 Mar 2002
Time: 15:32:02
Remote Name: 63.78.50.30
Hi , just picked up my "new" 1978 Appollo, looking forward to trying it out this summer. Alot of the posts answered most of my questions I will be sailing with my wife and 8 year old daughter, any safety issues or wrnings ? Waiting In Wisconsin !